brandied cherries

To start, a note of caution.

It is spring decidedly here– I have green tomatoes and Bill promises the first zucchini will be ready to pick before the weekend is over. There are apricots and runner beans and garlic scapes– and all the total summer bombshells (the melons and sweetcorn and brandywine tomatoes) are leafing out and shooting upwards. It is all downhill from here to the last gorgeous pumpkin and the first frost.

But beach-bunnies, do not be fooled by your own green beans.  The winter will come again, and it will be long and dark and interminable and on top of everything else, you’re not going to want to be stuck with red number 40 in your manhattans.

Cherries are going to be the first to go– gather them up now and pack them lovingly away in brandy, cardamom, allspice and cloves. Sneak a few in six weeks when they’re soaked through, and then secret the rest away in some dark cupboard for the scotch, bourbon, whiskey, rum and rye season that, yes, will inevitably come to all of us again.